Images of Côte d'Azur drinkers tipping high-end Bordeaux into sangría have sparked outrage. What does it say about our perceptions of wine's value? Plus: what I've been drinking this week
The unwritten social contract that things of exceedingly high quality, be it music, visual art or a well crafted wine should be appreciated with a certain reverence, is only something those who are, or want to be, in the know care about. In some ways I think this wine does its job. Its maker is compensated fairly, as is the retailer, the revellers get drunk and have a good time while garnering the attention and outrage they seek, and the world will rotate to make another excellent vintage of Petrus. Wine is about pleasure after all. Would I do the same with a bottle of that caliber? Of course not, but in the same way I can’t dictate how someone enjoys a painting or a song, I have no say in this.
If you can find the Granit from Comunica up your way, that's a fine rosé as well. They played with Trash Natural for a bit and have thankfully come to their senses and are making a lot of good wines these days.
Really interesting - especially about critics not saying if they don’t like a superstar wine that then might be drunk by someone who use it like Coca Cola. And of course the superstar producers rely on people with more money than sense to get by. And very good description of price of wine versus its quality.
Very interesting point. I wonder if part of the outrage on behalf of the producers is for show? They must know that a proportion of their customer base only buys the wines for bragging rights rather than because of their exquisite taste. But perhaps can't be seen to acknowledge that?
I don’t think the producer has commented and I don’t think they would. But yes, such luxury producers are well aware that their products are bought for show by a proportion of consumers - eg Roderer’s Cristal champagne by premiership footballers and the like
The unwritten social contract that things of exceedingly high quality, be it music, visual art or a well crafted wine should be appreciated with a certain reverence, is only something those who are, or want to be, in the know care about. In some ways I think this wine does its job. Its maker is compensated fairly, as is the retailer, the revellers get drunk and have a good time while garnering the attention and outrage they seek, and the world will rotate to make another excellent vintage of Petrus. Wine is about pleasure after all. Would I do the same with a bottle of that caliber? Of course not, but in the same way I can’t dictate how someone enjoys a painting or a song, I have no say in this.
If you can find the Granit from Comunica up your way, that's a fine rosé as well. They played with Trash Natural for a bit and have thankfully come to their senses and are making a lot of good wines these days.
Really interesting - especially about critics not saying if they don’t like a superstar wine that then might be drunk by someone who use it like Coca Cola. And of course the superstar producers rely on people with more money than sense to get by. And very good description of price of wine versus its quality.
Thanks Lizzie!
Very interesting point. I wonder if part of the outrage on behalf of the producers is for show? They must know that a proportion of their customer base only buys the wines for bragging rights rather than because of their exquisite taste. But perhaps can't be seen to acknowledge that?
I don’t think the producer has commented and I don’t think they would. But yes, such luxury producers are well aware that their products are bought for show by a proportion of consumers - eg Roderer’s Cristal champagne by premiership footballers and the like