The different fates of two iconic Italian grocers tell us a lot about a century of change in Soho - and about today's food culture. Plus: what I've been drinking this week
Planning law has always hastened these sorts of changes but neighbourhood can plan together to try to draw guidelines so for example types of changes can be better controlled
Interesting read. Worth noting that Jamie's Italian was also a victim!
I must admit that I haven't been to Soho for a long time but I ate in Serafina which I thought was a family run restaurant, similar to you describe, in New York. It, too, turns out to be part of a big global chain, albeit run by Italians! Still the Carbonara was good and I washed it down with a nice bottle of Falanghina!
This is a superb read Andy and it is, as you say, interesting/sadly ironic that the very success and popularity of Italian food is one of the reasons the traditional stores haven't survived. I loved going to Camisa and the original Linas, but didn't;t go often enough and clearly wasn't the only ones. I think Lina Stores new owners have done a pretty good job in keeping much of its essence. The new one in Bloomberg arcade is gorgeous. Gabriella Saccomani comment on getting up at 4am to make fresh pasta resonates especially as my partner TheSconeManinLondon gets up around that time to bake for Sketch & others. As I have said on my restock, my greatgrandparents had a barber's shop in Monmouth St where my Dad went after school. He also has a sharp memory for Soho in early days of Bar Italia when he hung out at Ronnie's and other clubs for jazz (see his Bernard Victor substack on jazz then and now as he still goes to gigs a couple of times a week. At 93 he may be one of the oldest substackers ?
What a great read! This brings back memories of sharing a 2 bed flat with 4 other people on Old Compton Street back in the day! I slept on the floor, of course!
Such a good piece reflecting on the good bad and the ugly of London’s best area. Only those like you and me can remember that Soho was pretty grim in the 80s with the Maltese mafia, clip joints and corrupt coppers. And yes you couldn’t get 7 types of Italian sausage at your local Waitrose so had to go to Camisa. Still some amazing places to eat and drink and now The Devonshire, possibly the greatest pub anywhere
A beautiful and heartwarming place serving great Guinness and extraordinary food, created and served by great staff who are paid well and treated like proper people. Apart from that, very average. But I’d be very interested for your other suggestions in the area. All the best to you both
I have to agree about the Devonshire. The only time I’ve ever been in there, it was so rammed with guys each ordering 4 pints of Guinness that I gave up trying to get served
Very interesting. I can never decide wether it’s good or bad that traditional places are taken over by developers. Time and tastes change, but tradition and nostalgia are always in fashion.
Same here. I started off researching the piece thinking that Lina’s new owners were annoying corporates but ended up thinking they’d done a pretty good job
Very refreshing - so many people take a view on their instincts & stick to it regardless. I know nothing about them, so have no stake, but just appreciate anyone who makes a judgement on facts, rather than prejudices!
On Devonshire - think it's too busy as a pub, but the restaurant was charming in the evening - good, not great food, but just had a good vibe. Helped by having a decent table - if you're a 2, they looked a bit squashed together.
Planning law has always hastened these sorts of changes but neighbourhood can plan together to try to draw guidelines so for example types of changes can be better controlled
Interesting read. Worth noting that Jamie's Italian was also a victim!
I must admit that I haven't been to Soho for a long time but I ate in Serafina which I thought was a family run restaurant, similar to you describe, in New York. It, too, turns out to be part of a big global chain, albeit run by Italians! Still the Carbonara was good and I washed it down with a nice bottle of Falanghina!
Thanks!
This is a superb read Andy and it is, as you say, interesting/sadly ironic that the very success and popularity of Italian food is one of the reasons the traditional stores haven't survived. I loved going to Camisa and the original Linas, but didn't;t go often enough and clearly wasn't the only ones. I think Lina Stores new owners have done a pretty good job in keeping much of its essence. The new one in Bloomberg arcade is gorgeous. Gabriella Saccomani comment on getting up at 4am to make fresh pasta resonates especially as my partner TheSconeManinLondon gets up around that time to bake for Sketch & others. As I have said on my restock, my greatgrandparents had a barber's shop in Monmouth St where my Dad went after school. He also has a sharp memory for Soho in early days of Bar Italia when he hung out at Ronnie's and other clubs for jazz (see his Bernard Victor substack on jazz then and now as he still goes to gigs a couple of times a week. At 93 he may be one of the oldest substackers ?
What a great read! This brings back memories of sharing a 2 bed flat with 4 other people on Old Compton Street back in the day! I slept on the floor, of course!
Thanks!
Such a good piece reflecting on the good bad and the ugly of London’s best area. Only those like you and me can remember that Soho was pretty grim in the 80s with the Maltese mafia, clip joints and corrupt coppers. And yes you couldn’t get 7 types of Italian sausage at your local Waitrose so had to go to Camisa. Still some amazing places to eat and drink and now The Devonshire, possibly the greatest pub anywhere
A beautiful and heartwarming place serving great Guinness and extraordinary food, created and served by great staff who are paid well and treated like proper people. Apart from that, very average. But I’d be very interested for your other suggestions in the area. All the best to you both
what is it with the Devonshire, a very average boozer.
I have to agree about the Devonshire. The only time I’ve ever been in there, it was so rammed with guys each ordering 4 pints of Guinness that I gave up trying to get served
Very interesting. I can never decide wether it’s good or bad that traditional places are taken over by developers. Time and tastes change, but tradition and nostalgia are always in fashion.
Same here. I started off researching the piece thinking that Lina’s new owners were annoying corporates but ended up thinking they’d done a pretty good job
Very refreshing - so many people take a view on their instincts & stick to it regardless. I know nothing about them, so have no stake, but just appreciate anyone who makes a judgement on facts, rather than prejudices!
On Devonshire - think it's too busy as a pub, but the restaurant was charming in the evening - good, not great food, but just had a good vibe. Helped by having a decent table - if you're a 2, they looked a bit squashed together.
This is an excellent read!
Thank you!